Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Team Everest Update

Today our Team Everest enjoyed base camp and spent a few hours ice
climbing on the lower Khumbu glacier. Conditions were fabulous and
made for solid ice tool and crampon placements. Other members relaxed
and enjoyed our base camp. We are preparing to split into two groups
tomorrow.

Group 1: Guides Garrett Madison and Lakpa Rita Sherpa will take five
climbers up to Camp 1 to spend two nights.

Group 2: Guides Ben Jones and Brien Sheedy will rest tomorrow and then
take seven climbers up to Camp 1 the following day.

Our plan is to move together on May 3rd from Camp 1 to Camp 2 and
climb together from that point onwards. Everyone is doing well and we
look forward to our second "rotation" on Everest!

Garrett Madison, Expedition Leader

Monday, April 29, 2013

Alpine Ascents Team Everest Update

Our whole team is in base camp and enjoying sunny days!

Today our Team Everest split into several groups to accomplish various activities. Guide Ben Jones took a group of climbers to Pumori base camp.  Garrett Madison and a few climbers climbed up in the Khumbu Icefall to the "football field" approximately half way to Camp 1 and returned to base camp.   A few other climbers stayed in camp and rested.  Everyone is doing well and we are preparing to head up in a few days on our second "rotation" to Camps 1, 2, & 3.

The route is currently now fixed up to our Camp 3 and in a few days the fixing should be completed to the South Col and up Lhotse.  We are very excited for this progress.

All of our climbers and sherpas are very happy to be climbing together and we are in very good spirits in base camp.  We have a very positive and strong relationship with our sherpa team and will continue to promote our solidarity as a team working together through mutual respect for one another.

Garrett Madison, Expedition Leader

Sunday, April 28, 2013

: Team Arabs with Altitude - Safely Back at BC

> Hello everyone. Happy to report that Team Arabs with Altitude returned safely to base camp this morning, successfully completing our first rotation to Camp 2. Everyone is healthy and happy and we are looking forward to a sushi lunch and a well earned rest this afternoon. Ciao for now.
>

Saturday, April 27, 2013

Alpine Ascents Everest Teams doing well

Today our Team Everest split into several groups. Two of our climbers
climbed halfway up the Khumbu Icefall route with guide Ben Jones,
while several members hiked to Gorak Shep for lunch and nice views
with Guide Brien Sheedy. Other members relaxed in base camp and
enjoyed the sunshine. We plan to review technical skills tomorrow on
the glacier.

Team Arabs with Altitude had another nice day up at Camp 2 with guides
Michael Horst & Vern Tejas. They are all doing great and feeling well
acclimatized after 3 days at Camp 2.

The route fixing project had a setback today when one of the fixing
sherpa was struck by ice, possibly generated by a climber above, we
believe he is OK. The fixing team of sherpas will take a rest day
tomorrow and resume fixing work the following day weather pending.

Garrett Madison, Expedition Leader

Friday, April 26, 2013

Route fixing update

Currently our route fixing team is working on putting in the fixed ropes from the base of the Lhotse Face up to Camp 3.  However, today they encountered a set back when they encountered a long horizontal crevasse just below the lower Camp 3.  Hopefully tomorrow they will find a way around it.  If not, they will most likely have to use the direct route from the base of the Lhotse Face up to Camp 3, which last year was exposed to significant rock fall, but this year should be better protected given the snow above in place to catch any falling rocks from Lhotse.

Garrett Madison, Expedition Leader

Thursday, April 25, 2013

Team Everest Update

Our Team Everest main group has just descended from Camp 2 through the Khumbu Icefall and reached base camp.  We had a great 5 nights above base camp, 3 of which were spent at Camp 1, and 2 of which were spent at Camp 2.  We had a few feet of unexpected snow at Camp 1 which made for a fun snow camping experience.  We had Camp 1 all to ourselves our last night there, and then had a spectacular walk up to Camp 2 through the Western CWM.  While at Camp 2 we enjoyed our very well equipped dining tent that kept us warm well into the evening (space heater & padded/carpeted floors). Our meals at Camp 2 were very good, we had large portions of well prepared western cuisine 3 times daily.  While at Camp 2 on our rest day we went for an acclimatization hike and had spectacular views of Lhotse, Nuptse, and Camp 2.  

Today we descended from Camp 2 down to base camp and passed many climbers heading up through the Khumbu Icefall.  Upon returning to base camp we enjoyed some hot showers, a tasty lunch, and a movie matinee.  It is great to be back in base camp after our first successful rotation up on the mountain.  We plan to stay in base camp for about a week and then return for another foray.  

Garrett Madison, Expedition Leader

Update from ten Arabs with Altitude

Team Arabs with Altitude has just reached Camp 2 today. Everyone is doing well and relaxing. Our Camp 2 is very well equipped with a special tent for the film maker with the Arab group. This tent has a carpeted and padded floor, a heater, and a power station for recharging electronic devices. Our camp 2 dining tent for climbers is very plush with a space heater, carpeted and padded floor, and a nice table with chairs all around. We are confident this team will be enjoying Camp 2 while they acclimatize over the next few days.

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Alpine Ascents 2013 team to Camp 2

Garrett Madison's team moved to Camp 2 today after spending one extra day in Camp 1 yesterday cleaning up after a massive snow fall. A few sherpa broke trail from Camp 2 all the way down to Base Camp opening up the route for climbers to move up and down the mountain again. It is a bit cloudy and snowing lightly here at Base Camp, but Garrett reported clear skies and good weather up at Camp 2.

Camp 2 sits at 21,300 feet and is commonly referred to as Advanced Base Camp, or ABC. I just got the nightly radio call in and it sounds like everyone felt great on their move! They are all settled into the dining room now, ready to enjoy a nice dinner from our Camp 2 cook, Ang Tsering, before heading to bed. The team plans to spend two nights in ABC. They will mostly rest tomorrow, taking short hike around the Western Cwm to maximize their acclimatization. The following day they will finish off their first rotation by descending all the way back to the luxuries of Base Camp.

Joe Kluberton

Arabs With Altitude arrive in Camp 1

The weather today was picture perfect as the Arabs with Altitude made their way through the Khumbu Ice Fall to Camp 1. Everyone is doing great, enjoying some well deserved hot drinks and settling into their tents. They plan to spend a rest day in Camp 1 tomorrow acclimatizing with a light hike up into the foot of the Western Cwm. We'll check back in the following day as they continue up the mountain to Camp 2 at 6,500 meters or just over 21,000 feet.

Monday, April 22, 2013

Snow Snow Snow!!!

Here at Base Camp we got about 3 inches of snow. Our Sherpa at Camp 2 reported about 6 inches of snow there. Given these numbers it would be reasonable to think that Camp 1 got somewhere between 3 and 6 inches of snow…right? Actually, they got about 3 feet!!!

Given the waist-deep snow, our climbers decided to hold tight in Camp 1 for the day rather than break trail to Camp 2 as planned. Even the Sherpa here in Base Camp, who are amongst the strongest high altitude climbers on the planet, were turned back by waist deep snow after making it only a quarter of the way up the Khumbu Ice Fall.

So everyone pretty much stayed right were they were on the mountain today. Those folks lucky enough to be snowed in at Camp 1 (our team) busied themselves with clearing away snow from around camp and helped out some other teams by excavating their tents as well.

There is a possibility of some more snow in the forecast, but the skies are clear now and we're keeping our fingers crossed for good weather so our team can make their way to Camp 2 in the morning.

Joe Kluberton

Sunday, April 21, 2013

Team Arabs With Altitude Prepare to Climb Higher.

Team Arabs with Altitude has been busy at Everest Base Camp.  We spent several days training and preparing for our move up to Camp I.  The training involved moving smoothly up and down steep fixed lines, ice climbing and a variety of rappel techniques.  

Yesterday, for further acclimatization and training, we made our first move above base camp climbing a third of the way through the Khumbu Ice fall toward Camp I. 

We are resting today and watching the weather closely tentatively planning to move up to Camp I tomorrow.  The team is doing well and looking forward to climbing higher!


-Expedition Leader, Michael Horst

Alpine Ascents 2013 Everest Team Resting in Camp 1

Our first rotation is underway!!

The team rounded the Puja yesterday morning at 4am on their way to Camp 1. Fresh snow and cloud cover made for cooler than usual travel conditions, perfect when you are on the move. The Khumbu Icefall cascades down Everest and nearly lands in our Base Camp. I could literally throw a stone to the crampon point where our team spikes up in preparation to enter the intimidating terrain.

Friday, April 19, 2013

Alpine Ascents Team Everest travels part way into the Khumbu icefall

Alpine Ascents Team Everest travels part way into the Khumbu icefall

Hello Everyone,

Today after another great breakfast, the team made its first climb into the infamous Khumbu icefall. We climbed, travelled by fixed line and crossed our first ladders as we ascended around 600ft. Everyone did a great job getting use to using the fixed lines and working out the kinks in our gear. After arriving back at camp we had lunch and then began packing up our snack food for the next 4 days as we will climb to Camp 1 and then to Camp 2. (See pic below for the assortment of snack food we have).

Starting tomorrow morning at 3am Nepal time we will wake up, have breakfast, and head into the Icefall at 4am. We will spend two nights at Camp 1 at 19,200ft and two nights at Camp 2 at 21,300ft before heading back down to basecamp finishing our first rotation.

We are doing great and excited to head up on the mountain. Stay tuned.....

Ben Jones

Thursday, April 18, 2013

Alpine Ascents 2013 Everest Team does acclimatization hike to Pumori Base Camp

April 18th: The Alpine Ascents Everest team spent the morning hiking to Pumori Base Camp. The team gained roughly 400meters and was rewarded with wonderful views of Everest.

Puja ceremony at base camp

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Base Camp at last

Hello friends, family and loved ones,

Vern Tejas reporting in for Arabs with Altitude. We have covered alot of ground in the last few days. When the the team was well rested we continued our trek onward to Loboche. This quaint outpost along side of the mighty Khumbu Glacier was home for the night. Warm sun shone on our path leading up the Khumbu the following morning. As we entered base camp we performed the worlds highest "Harlem Shake".

Yesterday was the auspicious day for getting blessed before climbing the "big one". The "Puja ceremony" started early so we could enjoy the warmth of the sun. It's rather cool here sitting on top of the 1000 meter thick glacier at 5300 meters above sea level. Yet our spirits warmed up as we prayed for safe return and the Monk blessed our climbing equipment. The Chang (local brew) and dancing warmed us even further. Then in traditional Sherpa style we all got our faces smeared with Tsampa, fine barley flour that brings great luck.

Exploring base camp today we met many of our neighbors, climbers of experience from all over the world. After a great falafel lunch we practiced crossing ladders layed on the ground to simulate the ladders we will soon be crossing over gaping crevasses. Within an hour all of us were quite adept stepping from rung to rung forward and some backwards. And as an added bonus we even tried to walk across blindfolded. Fun was had by all.

For a special treat visit Twitter.com/EverestArabs

All our best,
Arabs with Altitude



PujaAtBC



The main Alpine Ascents Everest Team and Sherpa's had a puja (Buddhist blessing) ceremony today to ensure good luck on the mountain.

Monday, April 15, 2013

Alpine Ascents Team Everest

Today we are doing our puja ceremony and asking the mountain for safe passage. This involves the participation of our entire sherpa & western climbing team, burning juniper, and offerings to the mountain. We have begun review of fixed line travel, crampons, and ice axe technique. Tomorrow we will continue training and enjoying our base camp.

Garrett Madison, Expedition Leader

Sunday, April 14, 2013

Team Arabs With Altitude is Ready to Climb to Lobuche.

     Three days ago we hiked from Deboche to Pheriche with an important stop in Pangboche for the team members to be blessed by the Lama Geishe.  He has blessed us asking for safe passage up and down the mountain.  
     While staying in Pheriche we went for an acclimatization hike above the neighboring town of Dingboche.  Along the way we enjoyed amazing views of Ama Dablam and 8000 meter peaks Cho Oyu and Makalu. 
     The team is doing very well and looking forward to the climb to Lobuche today!

-Expedition Leader,  Michael Horst

For more updates and another perspective please follow along at www.moealthani.com

Saturday, April 13, 2013

Heading To Base Camp


The first Alpine Ascents Everest Team arrived at base camp today and everyone is very happy to be here. Everyone says hi to their family, friends and loved ones.

Friday, April 12, 2013

Alpine Ascents Team Last Stop Before Base Camp

The team is taking our last break before base camp. In Gorak Shep we are enjoying some noodles & hot drinks before the final trek to base camp today!

Thursday, April 11, 2013

Team Arabs With Altitude Climbs to Kumjung.

       After our visit in Thame, we rose early and began the climb to the town of Kumjung.  The team enjoyed the amazing views as we went higher and higher.  In the afternoon, we arrived in the large town of Kumjung, home of the Hillary School and the largest clinic in the Khumbu valley.  We spent some time touring the school, watching the kids play and interviewing one of the head school teachers. 

The team is doing very well.  Today we look forward to trekking further up the valley through Tengboche and on to our destination for the night, Deboche.


-Expedition Leader, Michael Horst

Team Arabs With Altitude Treks from Namche to Thame.

Team Arabs With Altitude departed Namche Bazar and made the beautiful trek to Tame, the home town of our Sirdar, Kami Rita Sherpa.  There we visited the local Monastery and Kami's parents house where he grew up.  Our reception and the hospitality in Thame was exceptional.  Kami's parents invited us in for a fine Sherpa tea and the monks showed us around the monastery, sharing two thousand year old prayer books with us and explaining much of their way of life.


-Expedition Leader, Michael Horst

Trek to Lobuche

Today we trekked from Pheriche to Lobuche. We awoke to fresh snow & clear skies, with towering peaks all around. We plan to rest here tomorrow.

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

LamaGesheBlessing



The climbing team was very pleased and humbled to receive a blessing ceremony from Lama Geshe (the high Lama of the Khumbu).

He shared the following information with us:
"May the precious mind of enlightenment, Arise where it has not arisen.
Where it has arisen, may it not wane, But further and further increase.
The Buddha said: You yourself are your own refuge. Nobody else can be your refuge.
If you really tame your mind, You can attain the highest realization of the Buddha!"

Trek to Pheriche

Today we trekked from Debuche to Pheriche.  Along the way we stopped in Pangboche and visited with Lama Geshe for blessings, to climb Everest.  The last two days have been wonderful as we trekked from Khumjung to Debuche which is deep within a rhododendron forest.  Before Debche we stopped in the Tengboche monastery and also visited the Tengboche bakery which had great pastries and coffee.

Visiting Lama Geshe today was special for all of us.  We are now in Pheriche where we will spend two nights.  Everyone is doing well and we look forward to a great meal tonight in our lodge.

Photo: Lakpa Rita, Raha, & Lama Geshe 

Garrett Madison, Expedition Leader

Monday, April 8, 2013

Delightful first sight

Arabs With Altitude Reach Beautiful Namche Bazar

Hello friends, family and loved ones,

Vern Tejas reporting for Arabs with Altitude. We climbed up to the scenic overlook on the East side of town and were treated to a wonderful panoramic view of Everest and its surrounding peaks. Photos and video documented our first glimpse of this handsome yet challenging mountain. We were thrilled to see it though it will take ten days to even get to the base of it.

After a fine lunch we took a tour of town shopping for tent carpets and other last minute essentials. The day was made complete with apple pie and coffee at Everest bakery.

It was a great day to acclimate to our 3400 meters above sea level. The team is adapting well and in high spirits. Tomorrow we will explore up valley.

All our best,
Arabs with Altitude

Saturday, April 6, 2013

Trekking to Khumjung

Last night we stayed in Thame, then visited with Lakpa Rita's parents in the house that he grew up in. We also visited the monastery and observed the monks during prayers. Now we are enjoying lunch on our way to Khumjung.

Friday, April 5, 2013

Alpine Ascents International Team "Arabs With Altitude" is Ready For Lift Off.

Team Arabs With Altitude is ready to go.  All of the climbing team members and trekkers arrived by Wednesday.  Fortunately most of our luggage did too.  

After a thorough team gear check Thursday the team feels well prepared.  

Today was packed with Kathmandu adventures.  Many of the team members visited the school that they raised money and awareness for and then went on tour of local temples and historic parts of the city.  We spent the afternoon with the creator and owner of the Himalayan Database, Elizabeth Hawley learning how she keeps track of all the climbers on the world's highest peaks and enjoying her witty company. Before dinner we had an insightful demonstration by Ted Atkins, the designer of the Top Out oxygen masks that we will be using on our summit attempt.

It's early to bed tonight.  We have our first alpine start in the morning.  4 am wake up calls for all as we head for the airport and hope for good weather to fly to Lukla.

-Michael Horst 

Day 2 of Trek-Hiking to Namche


First day of trek


Everest team flys to Lukla


Thursday, April 4, 2013

Nice views from Everest View hotel

Today we hiked up to the Everest view hotel above Namche. Nice views of the highest mountain! We will rest & enjoy Namche this afternoon.

Garrett Madison, Expedition Leader

The trek has begun

Today we trekked up to Namche from Phakding where we spent last night. It was a nice walk with great views from the suspension bridges crossing the river as we made our way up the Khumbu valley. Everyone is doing great and we look forward to a restful day in Namche tomorrow.

Garrett Madison, Expedition Leader

Monday, April 1, 2013

Team arriving in KTM

The team is arriving today and those of us in town are out having a nice dinner in Kathmandu! We have big day planned for tomorrow.